A battery weighs down a random orbit sander quite a bit and can cause uneven pressure and marks if you’re not careful. I can lug a LOT of heavy duty extension cords at the same weight as a few batteries. I also can’t imagine the cordless table saws lasting for many cuts.įinally, there’s weight. If I am outdoors, I don’t have to deal with constant battery changes for a long project. Similarly, if I am near electricity, why wouldn’t I just plug in the miter saw? If I am indoors, it allows a vac hookup. If you were in your kitchen, you’d just use a normal conventional coffee maker, plates, etc. It ends up taking up more time than it’s worth.įor most tools, cordless is similar to camping…if you’re in the woods, you’ll settle for some creative way to make coffee or serve dinner. For some tools, they eat up battery so quickly, I’d need like $1000 of batteries so I could hot-swap them. Having a shop-vac + cyclone setup means my woodworking space is much cleaner and cords are just far more convenient…not to mention I can work all day. They’re all plugged into a splitter on a relay switch so when I change grits, I just swap the vacuum hose, turn on the sander, and the vacuum automatically turns off and on. My setup at home is that I have 5 inexpensive random orbit sander, each with a different grit of paper. That’s why I was surprised people wanted a cordless biscuit joiner or random orbit sander. I have most of my tools set so that when I turn them on, a vacuum or dust collector is triggered automatically.
I bought a corded drill specifically to add dust collection to a pocket jig setup, for example. It’s safer since you don’t have to worry about accidentally damaging the cord with the tool or exposing the cord to hot/sharp work surfaces.Īnd if you want to make heavy cuts with a circ saw there are several models on the market today which have substantially more power than corded.Ĭorded is easier for dust collection with a relay switch. Now I’m on the lookout for a cordless router.
#Festool sander and dust extractor free#
Even though the cut was only about 30″ long it was a major hassle to keep the cord free from all those clamps while making the cut. This involved many clamps to secure the work, the support, etc, to my bench. I had to clamp up a jig to hold the work board on edge and also an extra guide board at the correct angle so I had a good stable surface to run the router along. I had to rout a slot near the edge of a board for a long, thing, floating tenon or spline. Last weekend I was working on a furniture project.
That’s one of the main reasons why I replaced the factory power cords on most of my corded tools with 25 foot of SO cord instead, that way the plug is far enough away from the work area it doesn’t hang up on anything. It drives me nuts when the power cord hangs up on the edge of a 4×8 sheet when making a long cut. I still use certain corded power tools, but I can’t recall the last time I bought a new one, or was even interested in buying a new one. The last time we talked about this was a good 8 years ago – When is the Last Time You Bought a Corded Power Tool? Cordless? (2015). I’m interested in hearing about the corded tools you guys might still be using, and the types you might still buy today. You’d be hard-pressed to find a corded drill or hammer drill with an adjustable torque clutch, a feature that is built into nearly every cordless model these days.Ĭordless has become king, but there are still reasons to buy and use corded tools. Cordless versions of these types of tools cost considerably more since you also have to buy the power source and a charger.Ĭordless tools have advantages aside from the freedom of working without a cord to trip you up. Metabo HPT has a popular angle grinder that’s $39 at Amazon right now, and a 10″ miter saw that’s $119 at Amazon. Most of the time now, cordless tools don’t skip any beats, and in some cases best AC tool performance.Ĭorded tools can be far less expensive. Brands talk about how many of their cordless power tools deliver corded-like power or performance.
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